@Dale-Merrigan If you want to find a model and just print it, look into Printables.com, Thingiverse.com, and cults3d.com. If you want to create your own models from scratch, look into Tinkercad or Onshape. Tinkercad is very basic if you are new to CAD, while Onshape is a much more advanced CAD (similar to Fusion360).
@Jodie-Rae If he has access to a computer, that would be the easiest. If he doesn't, I know that he could get the TinkerCad mobile app on his phone, which would allow him to design some things. I believe that he might also be able to use Onshape. The Poloprint Cloud app has an AI generative model creator that he could use to, but if it needs to be a custom part, then that would not do the job.
I just finished this print on the Tina2s. It turned out perfectly. I got the model on MyMiniFactory if you want you go download it for free. Here are the settings I used: .2mm nozzle, 40 mm/s speed, 35% infill (could probably be bumped up), no supports (it is a supportless model). If anyone has knowledge about minis on these printers, please share! I hope that I can spread assistance for anyone that needs it.
@DXRKRCR Just to double check, is it safe to use the .2mm nozzle?
It uses the universal MK8 nozzle type. They can be found on amazon for really cheap.
@陆 I also have another question for you. I got the nozzles and did a test purge with the .2mm last night, and noticed that while purging, the feeder motor for the filament was skipping a lot. Can I use a .2mm nozzle on the Tina2s, and if I can, are there any settings that I need to change to not damage the printer?
@陆 Thank you so much! I will post my results for anyone else who wants info on minis.
Does anyone know where I could get other nozzle sizes (specifically .2mm) for the Tina2s? I want to do some work with minis, and a .4mm nozzle isn't small enough.
@apple_user_1744031845 Whenever I print minis, I always use 100% and support everywhere. Having 100% and supports everywhere gives more area for the nozzle to move around so that it will give other parts of the model to cool. This will make it so that there is no collapsing of the walls of the model.
Also try increasing the infill %. I have had decent success with minis on my Tina2s.
I had a similar issue with my printer. Middle of the night, it started jamming. I had to take off my hotend and remove the nozzle. Filament got dried up inside it. Try maxing out the temp and feeding filament through the tube into the hotend to unstick any filament inside. DO NOT LET THE FILAMENT FFROM THE TUBE MELT IN THE HOTEND. You will have a major issue if it melts.
@陆 Thanks Eric. Hopefully I can get Wiibuilder soon.
Is there any way to get tree supports on the Poloprint app? It suck having to spend forever post processing because the standard supprts fuse with the model. I have no way to get to Wiibuilder, so the app is my only option. Any help?
@Benb It helped slightly. My build plate is all scratched up from trying to get the first print off, so I still use painters tape.
Try printing models from the app, then deselect the raft adhesion. This will remove the large area where the model is printed on. If that doesn't work, I like to use blue painter's tape and cover my build plate in it. Then you can just rip the tape off.
Thanks a bunch. Just printed the 1kg spool holder for it. I'll try that tonight.
You will have to go into a slicer and cut the print up. There are tons of YT videos to explain. The only problem that you may encounter is welding the pieces back together. I suggest using a soldering iron and spot-welding them.
When I first got the printer, I printed out a frog for the SD card and could BARELY get it off. Because of the raft that is printed when you print something from the SD card, it makes it almost impossible to get it off the build plate. I have had this same issue when printing other items without the raft.
I have started to use painter's tape to get my prints off. Does anyone have any solutions to the problem listed above?
